Mongolia Mongolia Tuesday, August 3, 2010
Today we Mongolia verschaukelt again already. We are woken by the sun, beautiful blue Himmel, keine Wolken.
Aber bis wir aufgestanden sind, gefrühstückt, zusammengepackt und bezahlt haben, war der Himmel wolkenverhangen und es regnete sich zu. Zum Glück aber waren wir schon auf der Teerstrasse. Am Himmel ist kein Fleckchen blau und so bleiben wir bei unserer Entscheidung, auf der Teerstrasse bis Ulaan Bataar zu fahren. An einer Brücke über den Orchon Gol gibt es Räucherfisch. Die Mongolen essen in neuester Zeit auch Fisch. Auf der Hinfahrt haben wir uns nicht an den Fisch herangetraut, aber nachdem uns Jost davon has raved, we buy a carp-like fish, still warm from the smokehouse, and it tastes good. Matt eats a half, which are other then the next day. Fortunately, we only learned later that the fish was probably smoked over dung-so be it. Monday 02 August 2010
All night it rained. Our "neighbors" with the roof tent will probably not soon able to pack up. We drive through until noon and again make a rest at a place where we were already on the way snack, a small ford, near a wooden house many horses, cows, goats and sheep. As we have just finished eating it honks and presses ahead, a white Land Rover approached. It is Jost, we have met in Ulaan Bataar and the us has actually brought the idea with Moron and the Naadam. He was there just for his company if http://world-multivisions.de Pictures wanted to do. But it came too late, but it visits the Khovsgol Nuur and there also sensational experience. We talk a while in our cabin, a coffee together and it's raining outside continues uninterrupted. The "soap line" is still ahead of us and although it to the camp only 41 miles as the crow line, and Bulgan only about 60 kilometers, we fear the worst. Then it roars Jost. He wants to do some work and it dawns well before the last piece of track and road construction sites to asphalt. The track has actually been transformed into a skating rink. Even the all-wheel cars slide around laterally and uncontrollable. The deep tracks that have pulled the heavy vehicles to force us and the other always in directions we never intended to drive. The small passenger cars without four-wheel have the greatest problems. But waiting is not a solution, it rains constantly and the condition of the track is sure in the next Days does not improve. We light trucks pulling a Mongolian man with 9 "occupation" from the mud. But he remains on the onward journey always nearby. Probably we now have the sponsorship, and that's a good thing, because a little later he is back in trouble, or on. At a junction, had the easier terrain vehicles loaded of difficulties, had it happened: it is firmly indicated. But since we are still. Shortly thereafter, he drives to the same risky boots, fellow drivers impressed the little. The driver and passengers of cars to overtake each other again and again, waving to already. Again, a passage made it. And it's really done: Asphalt. We drive revenue and GE Khangaj into the camp, where they welcomed us warmly. We had suggested that we come back. After that day we dare then again in a Mongolian restaurant, and are pleasantly surprised. There are stews, the meat is tender, well seasoned with sauce, rice and potatoes, appetizers and a dessert yogurt with strawberries - heart what you want more. Sunday 01 August 2010 - three months on the road
After yesterday yes had a beautiful sunset, it is cloudy again today, unfortunately. We drive towards Bulgan. We meet the French with the Azalai cabin, we had already met in Samarkand and those of us on this road, both of conditions encountered in the reverse direction. We talk of ourselves and replace the addresses. The ride is going well in the direction of Ulaan Bataar, the slope is a little dry. got a taste, let us fill a bottle directly from the producers Airak, the fermented mare's milk. We turn left from the slopes in the hills, we do not want that late Pack up. Here already a Mitsubishi Pajero is with roof tent. We look for a transverse valley earlier a beautiful place with views over the hills and pastures. evening it starts raining again. How well will look like tomorrow the track? Saturday 31 July 2010
In the night we are rudely awakened. A Mongolian vehicle with blue and red lights on the roof, which looked like police blue light next to us for a few inches, stopped and let the engine. As Matt looked out the Fenstter, he saw himself and the driver directly in the eye. After we outed as a German, for he met on the hill in the night it. The next day we also know where he is, probably got slightly intoxicated. Namely, the Naadam in Moron, which, unfortunately, Friday night ended. We have been eating a Fehlinforamtion and come too late.  |
| at Moron |
Murun But we can fill our stores, there are well-stocked food markets. The car we can finally clean.  |
| at the gas station in Murun |
We want the next days go slow, we are really down recently enough. We want to drive slowly back to Ulaan Bataar. We take the same route we came. We had been thinking about going from the so-called Südoute Bulgan. But that would once again about 280 kilometers of runs, and we do not know what it looks like there after the rain. to make a lake, we stop. Here are two wooden houses on the slopes and there are several Gers at least 10 large flocks of sheep graze in the meadows around the lake. Matthias egg con looking for little, and appeared after a while again - on a horse. He added "talk" with a shepherd who oversees the 3 herds. We open a can of beer and then Connor has his horse. Unfortunately, the saddle is not quite firm, so that it rotates along with this when getting on and off almost a lap around the belly of the horse.  |
| wenns itches .... |
Today we take a break near the site of yesterday, we only drive on the other side of the runway behind the hills. Giant cicadas buzzing around us, the meadow blooms in all colors, and The day passed with a beautiful sunset.
Friday 30 July 2010
In the night it was very cold and the people around us to thaw very slowly. For breakfast we go to the restaurant, we had breakfast with "busy" in order not to work quite so stingy, even when we sleep in the car and not in the device or one of the huts. And we are surprised there is everything (and more) your heart desires, and especially coffee, as much as you are will.Wir on the way back to Ulaan Bataar probably do it again this station.
We drive back onto the tar road, which then is over, and turns into snow. Then it starts to rain and üblerweise the mess begins.
Not only that, it feels like on soap, the car will gesaut from top to bottom thick, viscous mud. But for that we again have the most beautiful landscape, rolling, lush green hills and mountainsides. This is not only grazing, we also see fields and fields bewitrschaftete. The Gers will be less, but small, Siberian wooden houses on the slopes and also hidden in the valleys.
But the road runs. 50km before Murun we look for in a meadow behind a hill a place to stay near a herd of grazing camels. And the lawn is full of edelweiss. Thursday 29 July 2010
past goodbye as we intended from the Oasis and thus only once by Sibylle and René, the Australian Paul and a Dane who lives in Australia and southern France and a few other nice, interesting people who are much crazier things than we do. Jost, we have met here, got the tip, the Moron in the weekend should still take place Naadam, and we need to see.
www.world-multivisions.com On the way we are running in Ulaan Bataar Murun yet a toyota shop across the road. Matt tries his luck to purchase an air filter. Fully verzückz he comes back from the store. Not only do they have the required part, the shop fascinates him. Huge, neatly set up the 50 stages just fine. And you can also pay by credit card.
We leave Ulaan Bataar Darkhan and Erdenet on to the asphalt road. In Erdenet, we want to change money once, as is so often a complicated pleasure. We had already made the move several unsuccessful attempts in Erdenet, it also succeeds only at the third attempt to move to € Turgik. The asphalt road goes up far to Bulgan. On the roadside we see a sign that points to Kanghaj-discivery-camp. The landscape is beautiful, green fields and copses, it's time to rest, and so we drive off the main road.
are many Gers in the camp, some huts and a restaurant. Surprised, we feel that here on a green field a real service building with real toilets and showers. We decide to stay here for one night. Of the only Mongolian guests will be admired by stealth. Tuesday 27 July - Wednesday 28 July
rest and wash days in Ulan Bator Am Mittwoch haben wir beide einen mongolischen Friseur ausprobiert. Das war die aufregendste Aktion des Tages abgesehen von einer Busfahrt durch Ulan Bator und den Besuch des Khan-Bräu-Brauhauses - gutes Schwarzbier und eine Riesen-Würstchenplatte. Montag, 26. Juli 2010
Heute morgen besichtigen wir das berühmte KlosterErdeni-zuu, das aus den Trümmern der zerstörten ehemaligen Hauptstadt des Mongolenreiches Dschingis Khans erbaut worden ist.
Die Anlage ist schon beeindrucken, obwohl vom eigentlichen Kloster nur die Außenmauern and four temple after its destruction during the Stalinist purge left. In the monastery are again set up prayer bowls in a ger Buddhist monks pray with visitors.
Visitors can theoretically up to the bedrooms of the monks walking in the middle of the houses where the monks live and in front of the temple is the temple shop. Buddhism For Sale! Nevertheless, we enjoy a tour of the monastery grounds. Then we go to the capital Ulaan Bataar to the Café and Guest House "Oasis", which is led by a German-Austrian couple. We were on the road already raved about the house, especially the good food. We also look forward to meet other travelers and again to talk with others. We reach after a hellish trip through Ulaan Bataar and the guest house just in time for final cooking and order a "Wiener Schnitzel" www.intergam-oasis.com
Sunday 25 July 2010
night in the ger camp was quite pleasant, but there are certainly better. We prefer to sleep but "at home" in the motor home, even if it is small.
We now want Zencher direction and on to Zezerleg. We visit the museum in the monastery "Zayain Gegeenii Süme", which was spared the Stalinist destruction. Unfortunately, we have played as they arrive, the information on directions from the travel know-how a trick, because the coordinates did not vote at all. But fortunately you can not miss Zezerleg actually.
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| means of a device in the museum Zezerleg |
On the return trip, we look forward described in the literature to a ger camp in Zencher-Sum, to which should also include an outdoor pool. Here there are hot springs and nothing we would do better than a bath, especially since it's raining again today. But despite demand Zencher we can not find this camp. Maybe it does not exist anymore. So we go back nach Karakorum. Hier gehen wir heute in ein anderes Ger-Camp. Es liegt in der Nähe des Klosters und es gehört die weltgrößte (von denen es wohl aber mehrere gibt) Jurte dazu. Hier ist ein Restaurant untergebracht und wir gehen auch zum Abendessen hin. Es schmeckt tatsächlich gut und auch das Fleisch ist genieß- und kaubar.
Samstag, 24. Juli 2010
Heute Nacht wurden wir vom Schnaufen und Trappeln der Pferde wach, die sich im fast kompletten Vollmond unserem wohnmobil näherten - Romatik pur. Gegen Morgen wurden sie dann vom Hirten zusammengetrieben, der wenig später, während wir gerade frühstückten, die Ziegen und Schafe bei uns vorbei auf die Weide brachte. We drive today to Karakorum ( Kharkhorin), the former capital of Genghis Khan. In a simple camp we rent us a Ger Friday 23 July 2010
We arrived quite early in the morning to Bayankhongor, an almost tranquil place. Most shops were still closed, but the "market producers" there was already food "fresh from the farm". Sorry, nothing for us, particularly today, we wanted to buy a whole goat. The people came for milk, cottage cheese, Airag, the fermented mare's milk. But we have to Ulan Baator still without a long way to go, and do not trust them in our digestion, with the stuff Problems to be done.
We find then but still a nice little shop with foods that are palatable to the normal Central Europeans. to find
Zezerleg. We want to visit the Buddhist monastery. We ask at the "bridge toll, we are also has a path that leads to a few kilometers in the wrong direction. In this direction lie but the thermal springs of Schargald. All right, we think, but here we do not really get further.
The track becomes a path that more and more muddy, we are left to a ford where the bank is washed away and only deep mud remained. Here we can sink well and more are secure. The risk we do not want. So again all the way back to the main road. Here, too, is again building site, the slope is poor. On the main road, we stay up then Arvaikheer. We left after 50 km the main road and branch off to the north. But we have no luck. The trail branches off to again and again, at some point we get the wrong branch. Then we are suddenly in a gold mining camp. We do not know how people react after all is what they do illegal and will probably also pursued by the State Mining Authority. But they are friendly to us and show us the path. But that's not much, even here there was heavy rain gegeben, ein Teil der Furten ist uunpasssierbar. Wir müssen immer wieder umdrehen und uns einen Weg suchen. Dabei stoßen wir immer wieder auf Goldgräber. Sie graben Löcher in die Erde, bis zu 30 Meter tief, bis sie auf eine Goldführende Schicht stoßen. Hier treiben sie dann den Stollen vor. Ein lebensgefährliches Geschäft, für manche aber die einzige Möglichkeit, ihren Unterhalt zu verdienen, z.B. wenn sie durch einen strengen Winter ihre Herden verloren haben.
Es sahen aber nicht alle so aus, als würden sie das ganze Jahr hier leben. Wir haben erfahren, dass Studenten mit der Goldgräberei ihre nächsten Semester finanzieren. Irgendwann haben wir es dann aber geschafft. Wir sind draußen aus dem schwierigen Gelände und finden noch einen schönen Platz nicht weit von der Hauptpiste aber versteckt auf einem Hügel.
Donnerstag, 22. Juli 2010
Wir frühstücken und danach verabschieden sich die Rotelianer. Vielleicht treffen wir sie noch einmal in Ulan Bator wieder.  |
| Günther... |
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| ... and Erich |
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We run or between the rocks around, but saw in this morning sun but still beautiful.
Back on the road we drive on the east. The landscape changes sttändig, from succulent Wiesse it turns into steppe, desert, then - it is getting hotter.
In an extremely hot Corner of the world, people live in yurts and cabins on the river, is only a ford impassable.
One lives here in a large, currently water-rich river, but the country is extremely dry. The cars can move through the flow of tractors. An apparently new industry that thrives by the loss of the bridge. But we are high enough and can fords own.
drive later we still by a ger camp, we need bread and water and want to shop here. Food will be sold directly in the Gers, but have about 10 stores the same range: water, beer, sweets and cigarettes, in our case they are right under the "family altar" from. There
Only bread was not one.
find our place for the night we off the slopes on a beautiful lawn.
Wednesday 21 July 2010
We once slept really well. Matt has checked the car and the process noted that the exhaust pipe has come off by the shaking on the gravel track a mother, time for a vehicle maintenance and minor repairs. Today seems to finally make a right, the sun, which makes everything look much better. The landscape becomes more varied and finally emerge, the first Mongolian camels, unlike North Africa, there are the Bactrian mit zwei Höckern.
Wir fahren etwas abseits der Hauptpiste, als wir etwas abseits einen Friedhof entdecken. Hier wirkt es so ruhig und friedlich, die Landschaft ist schön, so dass wir anhalten und aussteigen.
Aber inmitten der mit Beton ausgegossenen Grabstellen machen wir eine unschöne Entdeckung. Warum die Skelettteile auf der Erde liegen, wissen wir nicht. Vielleicht sind die Menschen im Winter gestorben und man konnte das Grab nicht tief genug ausheben. Dann haben wahrscheinlich Tiere die Leichen wieder ausgegraben. Warum man die Skelette dann aber liegen ließ, ist uns nicht erklärlich. Oder aber hier wurde die in der Mongolei früher übliche aber während der sozialistischen Ära verbotene Himmelsbestattung durchgeführt.
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| Am Ovoo versuchen wir die Götter gnädig zu stimmen |
Am späten Nachmittag schauen wir uns wieder nach einem Platz für die Nacht um . Nördlich der Piste fällt uns bei tief stehender Sonne eine rötlich leuchtende Felsformation auf. Dort, wo es uns eigentlich gefallen würde, steht etwas rotes in der Landschaft. Conny tippt auf Rotel-Tours, Matthias hält es für einen normalen LKW oder Baustellencontainer. Wir fahren trotzdem hin, überlegen noch, ob wir uns einfach ins benachbarte Tal stellen. Aber wir sind dann doch der Meinung, dass wir wenigstens "Hallo" sagen, denn wenn es Mongolen sind, kommen sie sowieso, von der Neugier getrieben, vorbei. Als wir näher kommen, erkennen wir dann - den Bus von Rotel Tours.
Die Leute sitzen gerade beim Abendessen, sie winken uns freundlich näher und bieten uns an, da sie noch viel übrig haben, einfach mitzuessen. Uns so kommen wir in den Genuss von Kartoffelbrei, Sauerkraut und österreichischen Käsekrainern hergestellt in Ulan Bator. Soviel Glück, ein köstliches Abendessen, eine schöne Environment and nice people to Umterhalten. We buy our last two cool beer and have a nice evening. Rotel has a small shrubs here with a mongolian driver and an interpreter, who studied at the Freiberg Mining Academy.
Tuesday 20 July 2010
After the night storm has subsided, we sleep well. The route is currently only one pretty boring. No people, no Gers, in animals only mosquitoes and mammals, if they are dead. On the road are always dead animals in various stages of decomposition. Once we see a pit full of dead goats, you have not thrown once more, or the earth Kadaver verbrannt. Die Besitzer dieser Tiere müssen wohl ziemlich verzweifelt gewesen sein, vielleicht haben hier mehrere Familien ihre gesamten Tiere verloren und dann aufgegeben.
Der Ort Zereg, den wir dann passieren, scheint wie ausgestorben, nur ein paar alte Hunde, kaum Menschen. Wahrscheinlich sind alle, die aus dem Ort raus können, mit auf die Sommerweiden gezogen. Ab Zereg wird es nördlich der Piste grün, saftige Wiesen, allerdings wie mit einem Lineal gezogen verläuft die Grenze zur Steppe, ja fast Wüste. Ab hier ziehen sich entlang der Piste Gehöfte, aber auch hier lebt z.Zt. niemand.
Als wir gerade Mittagsrast machen wollen, kommt uns ein Deutsches Wohnmobil entgegen, ein kurzer Schwatz, looks like the runway in the course. In our direction, it has probably also in the last few days heavy rain added so that sections of the trail is little or sometimes were not even passable. This is the main route from the west to the capital. We need to understand on this trip and having to comply, the state is not a piste of importance or significance. We deplore and admire the Mongolian truck drivers as they maneuver their giant vehicles, sometimes with two trailers on this rough road.
We find a parking space off the runway at a Gjáarrétt sheep corral. At night there is always trucks on the road. Monday 19 July 2010
We had not yet gone very far when we saw are in a valley many Gers together. And in the middle a little white, a motor home, and we were amazed, a table-cab from France. Since we had back. The windows were blacked out and we wanted to drive away as something was moving. We were warmly welcomed and from the planned 5 minutes, 2 hours, we held in the middle of the Mongolian yurt once again a small table meeting. Patrice and Rachel enjoyed from Brittany really, we talked well, everybody learned from the other interesting, finally, the men looked with the active participation of 4 bold-seeing Mongol the hoods of cars. http://sansdestinationfixe.blogspot.com If we had planned to come to this a little better forward, this unexpected stop us very happy.
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| bridge architecture |
We then drove to Hovd. Under and beside the bridge over the river many Mongols camped here in Gers and normalne tents, horses, sheep and goats.
Actually we wanted to exchange money in the bank, on the wall hung a huge flat screen with the prices of different currencies and we also had extra demand that € can be replaced. We put on an automatic one card with a number and waited for the lights to a switch and we were on the line. Many of the Mongols, the numbers were drawn before us, were not to wait so patiently, and then figures approaching slowly through the switches of our own. Suddenly a group of those who were actually expected not been long gone and derern numbers were up again and all jostling to two switches - discretion appears in the truest sense of the word is a foreign word to be. Finally, an unemployed employee took pity on us and waved at their Switch - to tell us that only dollars gatauscht. In singing of abuse we left the bank. Waited in vain, but here we wanted to do business. Khovd as a city was not as the Ripper, we wanted to sleep outside and so we drove back out from the city.
Sunday 18 July 2010
After a quiet night, but out of balance, we are awake before the Mongols. But we do not slip away so and have breakfast in peace. Then comes too slowly to camp life. All help to collect the dung of animals and as fuel to dry.
is On drive on the good asphalt road soon in slope above and then in a road construction site, we always have to find our way on the slopes of the construction vehicles. But then the site is over and the road is once again paved, at least until Ölgii. Here we go shopping only once, are at the orgy the night before we run out of candy.
From Ölgii is back slopes. We stop at "Tolbo Nuur.  |
| cemetery lake |
It's good we're doing here until lunch time. Meanwhile, moves to a thunderstorm. The rain has attracted the mosquitoes descend giant animals that once we leave the car with us. The bites are painful and hinterlasssen large bumps. We had heard that transfer the Mongolian marmots and their lice, the plague, but we soon see as if we had had close contact. We flee the area. Back on the main track we go, a tourist vehicle, a Land Rover with Australian flag. But there are German, Born in Chemnitz, and emigrated to Australia 7 years ago. Now they want to go back to Germany and we meet in Mongolia. We drive a little further towards Hovd. Since we are not even want to be kidnapped again, we look for a nice place that is far enough away from the yurt camp, that does not come right back down to us or ridden.
We find again a place and wiieder find us. A man comes riding up increases, the horse, it binds tightly to our car, enters and says nothing.
We give him a beer, he drinks - and is silent.
we cut him some pieces of from our newly acquired cake he eats - and is silent.
He reaches into a Merian Issue on Mongolia, it flips from front to back, and - talking about! A magazine about Mongolia and not a word in Moongolisch, but the ice is broken. We little kids and we interpret it to the mouth, nose and eyes and spoke in German and Mongolian. Then we finally go outside and he was raised without being asked your horse pose. We photograph every eiinmal ride his horse and then may or must Matthias a small round.
Die tiefstehende Sonne und die Regenwolken, die wieder einmal aufgezogen sind, zaubern noch ein wunderschönes Licht und plätzlich stehen wir unter einem Regenbogen. Samstag, 17. Juli 2010
Grenze Russland-Mongolei
Wir werden gerade noch vor Feierabend abgefertigt, und da uns die Russen rausgelassen haben müssen The Mongols are let in well.
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| the first tentative guest |
We find a small lake near the street, a nice place. But just as we have finished our dinner, two young people from a nearby ger camp with the scooter and want to get to sleep in their camp.
We have no choice, we follow them.
We land in the camp with 5 Gers, sheep everywhere and suddenly we are surrounded. Then we are invited only once in the device. It is the dried yogurt and cheese, it is comfortable in the Yurt.
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| our parking lot, before we were "kidnapped" |
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then we are the hosts.
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| of visitors to our "parlor" |
Always sitting 2-3 of the residents of the Camps "test" in the small mobile home. We distribute a few presents and then go to sleep. We have our beautiful place by the lake, however, must exchange against a hillside and roll into the night again and again to the page.
